What to Eat

I thought I knew Greek food before I visited Athens. Moussaka, gyros, maybe some feta. That was about the extent of it. Then someone sat me down at a taverna in Koukaki, ordered a dozen dishes I’d never heard of, and basically rebuilt my understanding of what this cuisine actually is. Greek food goes so much deeper than the greatest hits. The cuisine draws on 4,000 years of history, some of the best ingredients in the Mediterranean, and a philosophy that food exists to be shared with people you like — ideally with wine, slowly, and late at night.